AMERICAN MOTORCYCLIST AUGUST 2019

The Rattlesnake 400

A Serpentine Adventure

By Tom Mehren

Unlike the lush green, well-watered topography of the western ends of Oregon and Washington, the eastern side of each state is primarily a desert climate. And what is common in the deserts of the western United States?

Rattlesnakes. Even this far north. Roads with plenty of corners and little traffic are also common to this area, so if spending a day in the twisties with little congestion is your idea of having a good time, say “Hello” to the Rattlesnake 400.

This 400-mile ride offers plenty of scenery, history and good times. Late spring to early fall provides the best weather windows, keeping in mind it can get downright hot (and, because this is wildfire season, occasionally smoky) here in mid-summer. A steady intake of water is recommended throughout the day, a camera is a nice addition, and be sure your stamina is up for eight to 12 hours in the saddle. You’ll want to be as keen when you finish as you were when you started.

You can begin the loop anywhere along the route. Pendleton, Ore., makes a great start and end point, because there are plenty of accommodations here, as well as some stellar dinner locations when you finish. More on that later.

Starting out early in the morning, head northeast along Oregon state Route 11. The first small town is Athena, Ore., home to the legendary Hodaka motorcycle brand. Pull over here and explore the forthcoming location of the museum that will pay homage to the iconic dirt squirt marquee. You’ll find the museum on Main Street being built inside the Gem Theater building.

Continue to Weston, Ore., and ride into the Blue Mountains along State Route 204, passing through Tollgate where you’ll find a small grocery/fuel/café stop worthy of breakfast or a coffee break. This road is quite fun as you ascend to more than 5,000 feet into the Blues, then down the other side into Elgin, Ore.

In Elgin, you’ll spot the Opera House/City Hall as you turn the corner from 8th Street onto Albany Street. The structure dates to 1912 and continues to serve its dual-purpose role today.

From Elgin, continue east to Enterprise, Ore., on state Route 82, then north along state Route 3. It’s interesting to note Enterprise has a population of 2,000, with no fewer than four radio stations to serve it.

Twenty miles north, the Joseph Canyon Viewpoint will appear on your right. This is a stop worthy of a look down into the canyon where Chief Joseph and his Nez Pearce clan wintered in the late 1870s.

Continue north as the road begins its descent into the Grand Ronde River Valley and crosses the state line into Washington, where the road becomes Washington state Route 129. If you’re into tight, downhill corners, you’ve come to the right place.

At the bottom of the river lies Boggan’s Oasis, a popular stopping point for riders to grab a bite, refresh themselves and continue on. The store and café burned to the ground in late 2017 but have risen from the ashes and are open for business once again.

Crossing over the river, the road ascends what is known as the Rattlesnake Grade. It’s a twisty 17-mile uphill climb to Anatone, Wash., then across the high plain and down into Clarkston, Wash.

This is the easternmost city on the route and the halfway point of the ride. Here you’ll find a few motorcycle shops in the area should you need one, as well as places to eat.

Continue west along U.S. 12, passing through Pomeroy, Wash., then take the exit for State Route 261 and ride the legendary Starbuck Highway. This road is worthy of a few repeat runs between Starbuck and the Palouse overlook, if you can swing it timewise.

Starbuck? you ask. Nope, no relation to the coffee mermaid.

The road crosses the Lyons Ferry Bridge, a recycled structure moved from Vantage, Wash., by floating it down the Columbia River and up the Snake River after it was replaced by the larger bridge now serving Interstate 90.

Some have referred to it as an “Erector-Set-looking monstrosity.” The view from here is stunning as you look at the walls of the canyon that fall to the Snake and Palouse rivers.

Up the hill is a turnout for the Palouse Falls Overlook, a gorgeous site not to miss. Mind you, the 2-mile road down is a well-maintained gravel surface worth the trouble if you’re on a street bike. And yes, there are rattlesnakes in the area.

Continuing west onto State Route 260, ride down to Kahlotus, Wash., and enjoy the stark badlands along the Pasco-Kahlotus Road, eventually making your way into Pasco, then Kennewick and picking up U.S. 395 south. Continue back into Oregon and exit onto state Route 730 at Umatilla, Ore.

Riding east on state Route 730, don’t pass up a chance to take in the view of Hat Rock before turning east onto State Route 37. Following the road up to Juniper Canyon will take you past the Holton Secret Lab, a car restoration center in the middle of a vast area of wheat fields. If you’re lucky, the shop may be open for a peek.

Finally, follow State Route 37 south into Pendleton, Ore., for the completion of the loop.

Celebrate with dinner at Hamley Steakhouse, or grab some ribs and rattlesnake sausage at the Sundown Grill & Bar-B-Q, where you can contemplate tomorrow’s ride to…?

Tom Mehren produces soundrider.com, an online resource of information about riding motorcycles in the Pacific Northwest and has authored six tour books on the subject.